The Fallen

Memorial to those executed at the Tower of London

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Focal Length: 60 mm
Exposure: 1/40 sec
Aperture: f/5.6
ISO: 800
Camera Model: NIKON D700

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  • 1995年以降というのは、ファッションとビジネスがさらに深い関わりになり(LVMHが例)、インターネットというファッション業界をひっくり返してしまう(選ばれた人しか入れなかったパリコレを、現在は中継で誰でも観れる)強力なツールが本格的に普及した時代です。そして、ラグジュアリーブランドの大衆化も、まさに1995年あたりからです『花椿』の編集部、 のもとの発行人、の著者である林央子氏のインタビュー資料などをもとに、主に1995年からのファッションの歴史を、氏の角度から紐解いていく『拡張するファッション』。当時の写真あり、ヘルムート・ラング氏の貴重なインタビューと写真?ありで、レアですね。抽象的ですが、読んでいくうち入り込めて面白いですファッションの歴史だけに関する書籍はいくつか出ておりますが、本書は1995年からの一般的なモードやストリートファッションの歴史というより、ファッションの定義の再構築だと思いましたですので、「巷にあふれた情報とファストファッションによって、トレンドがすぐに取り入れられてしまった現代、ラグジュアリーブランドはかつての輝きを失った 」みたいな、恨み節を叩くのではなく、ファッションは背景、または文脈(コンテキスト)によって拡張していることを僕らに教えてくれる本です(とはいえ、パリコレは2000年代以降は急速に輝きを失ったと述べていますが。)注意としては、あくまで林央子氏のフィルターを通していること。これが1995年以降のファッション史をまっすぐ照らしているわけではないということです。どちらかというとマニアック。関係者がたくさん出てきますし、林央子氏の経験に基づいたものです。でも、だからいい。というのも、林央子氏ご自身、1993年から2000年まで鬼のようにパリコレクションを調べつくされていらっしゃいます。相当の知識と、深い考えをお持ちだと思いますが、皆が想像しやすいパリコレの話題はほとんどありません。マルタンマルジェラとヘルムート・ラングは少し出てきますが、アントワープなどの話題はないです。1995年だというのに、裏原系の高橋盾氏やNIGO氏もなしその女性の人として、1990年代前半のXLARGEの女性版、X girlを立ち上げたソフィア・コッポラとキムゴードンが出てきます。X girはガーリーファッションの代表的なブランドこの人のデザイナーは、ファッションと関係あるものの、ファッションデザイナーとしての経歴は浅い。だからこそ、凝り固まっていない自由度あった。一方で、興味深いのはソフィア・コッポラ、キムゴードンの考えとして、母親の世代である1970年代アメリカのフェミニストたちへの反逆であることが伺えることを著者は述べていることです。そして反逆は、自主性を生むことに変わっていったのです著者と、キムゴードン、ソフィア・コッポラのインタビューから見えてくるのは、1970年代のファミニズムのルールへのアンチテーゼ。「女性らしい格好」「これをしなくてはダメ」・・・ガミガミ。こう言う線を引くことではなく、何でもトライしてみて思うままに進んでいくことではないか、私は私のままでいい、と主張されていますそれを一言で言うと、「Action Speaks Louder Than Words(あれこれ言わず行動でしめす)」長くなるのでここでは割愛しますが、ミランダ・ジュライのように、バンド、映画、小説といった表現手段「マルチクエイティビティ」は、今紹介してきた女性達に通じるもので、皆さんファッションに関係を持ちながら映画、音楽、写真、文学、webなどに活躍の場を拡大していきますちなみに、この自主性、日常への視線、マルチクリエイティブティのつは拡張するファッションの定義のベースとなります。なので、長めにガーリーを通してご紹介させて頂きました決まりきったルールからの脱却。自分の着たい服を着る。新たな表現を見つける・・・。反逆から自由への解放・・・これがガーリーの精神かもしれませんこの自主性と、それを表現するためにマルチクリエイティブティを使用する、日常への視線を大事にするという点で同じ。BLESSの作品はこちらのHPから観れますBLESSの場合、パリコレの発表を他のブランドのランウェイショーの立見席にしてしまう。観客だと思って、その場にいた人が実はBLESSの衣装を着たモデルで、BLESSの映像での発表の中で、ゲリラ的に撮影した映像をその日のうちに編集。そして会場で流すという非常に変わったもの。以下の動画がそのつだと思います。他のブランドの発表の場に紛れ込んでいますねぇ(笑)。 ウォーリーを探せじゃないんだからほかには、衣装を着てサッカーをするのが発表の場だったり。「よく見えない」という観客の指摘こそがBLESSのねらいであり、「服が人より目立ってはならない」というのが主張なんだとこの「日常への視線」を大事にする点と同時に、アートの分野に深く関わっているのも特徴。BLESSやCOSMIC WONDERは、美術館での発表、コラボレーションが多い。COSMIC WONDERはアートプロジェクト、ファッションプロジェクト、印刷物や音楽CDのプロジェクトのつに分類されている。マルチクリエイティブティを採用することでたがいに響き合うようにしたい、とCOSMIC WONDERの前田征紀氏は述べていますコラボレーションといえば、他のブランドやデザイナーどうしが協働してつの作品を作り出す行為。最近の大きなコラボレーションとしてルイヴィトン ◎インディペンデント雑誌「Purple」
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  • あわせて読みたい外国人が理解に苦しむ日本人女子の変なファッションセンスオシャレな夏ヘア「ビーチウェーブ」を超簡単に作る裏ワザおしゃれ上級者の着こなしに見える「パワー小物」の選び方3つもう泣かない!痛い「靴擦れ」とサヨナラする方法3つナチュラルなのに印象的な目の秘密は だった?毎日感謝を忘れずに潜在的美意識を高めて美人になりましょう
    www.alexhair.net @ 2014-04-13 14:38:21
  • りきくんとリリィさん。一緒におやつクレクレビーム発射中。りきくんはオサレさんの街、大阪堀江で買ってきた一点豪華服のクールなデザインの服を、リリィさんは名前がかっこよくデザインされた服を着せてもらってました。何だか大人のお洒落コギなムードですね
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The Fallen
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Focal Length: 60 mm | Exposure: 1/40 sec | Aperture: f/5.6 | ISO: 800 | Camera Model: NIKON D700